SSENSE TOP BANNER #Beloved #TBT

About Chess & Fans

My photo

A fan & Planer about

Fashion , art, Design & Music .

Know to be useful, or Believe

To be " Beautiful."

Sunday, February 21, 2016

“ Rick Owens’s Less Theatrical Approach for Fall 2016” by Samantha Tseng

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/ 
“ Rick Owens’s Less Theatrical Approach for Fall 2016” by Samantha Tseng via 紐約時報 2016, 3/16
The designer said backstage at his show, “I wanted to do something pure with this collection — pull back and purify and simplify.”
1. Rick Owens presented his fall/winter 2016 collection in the Palais de Tokyo.
2. “When I was starting this, I was thinking that I’d been on this theatrical binge for these last seasons and this season I thought no one will fault me if I pull it back a little bit,” Owens said.
3. “I wanted to do something pure with this collection, pull back and purify and simplify,” Owens said. “But then every collection needs moments of flamboyance or voluptuousness. But a quiet voluptuousness.”
4. A walk-through before the show.
5. “I’ve been looking at a lot of Art Nouveau stoneware recently and all of those lines melting,” Owens said. “They’re an indulgence, and complete sensuality bordering on perversity. And I was thinking of those blobs of shearling and all the draping I’ve been doing — it’s blobs cascading down the body like Art Nouveau melting ids.”
6. The makeup was inspired by the German performance artist and musician Conrad Schnitzler. “His thing on stage was a solid white face, almost like a clown, with black eyes,” said the lead makeup artist Sammy Mourabit, adding that the “square but very narrow eye” shape was Owens’s idea.
7. Owens has an ongoing collaboration with Adidas.
8. “It’s a contradiction of this extreme makeup and the raw frayed edges of the collection,” the lead hairstylist Duffy said of the hairpiece. “It’s very clean, almost like a travelling salesman. It’s like a Coen brothers movie kind of character.”
9. Lining up for a run-through before the show.
10. Nets kept the hair tame backstage.
11. Rehearsing the finale.
12. “It’s quite military,” Duffy said of the models with shaved heads.
13. A model trying on his look before hair and makeup.
14. “I work with fur a lot, but with the shearling, it was more raw and there was more sleaze,” the designer said about the draped material shown here.
15. A cropped shearling jacket offset voluminous pants.
16. A cropped shearling jacket offset voluminous pants.

Text by Samantha Tse
Photography by Molly S.J. Lowe

‪#‎PFW‬ ‪#‎AW16‬ ‪#‎RickOwens‬

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

https://www.facebook.com/rickowensdrkshdw/

No comments:

Post a Comment